A RESTAURANT WITH A WHIMSICAL TOUCH
WORDS BY KIMBERLY SUTA
Pork Dumplings photo by Kimberley Suta
Signs along the River Walk lead the way to Colette at The Phipps, which opened softly in June. I imagine the signs say, “Eat Me.” Ascending the elevator must be akin to what Alice felt as she fell down the rabbit hole, because when the doors parted and I opened my eyes, I was in a Wonderland.
The completely open-air restaurant is whimsical and inviting with a grass- like floor, bright pink and blue chairs and live-edge, wooden dining tables that are enveloped by the canopy of trees that grow along the River Walk.
“I just think San Antonio is the greatest city in the country,” says Martin Phipps, owner of Colette. “We have family, we have culture. We want people to come and see the best of what we have to offer — come and relax and enjoy one of the most beautiful areas in SA.”
Once upon a time, the entire space — which is shared with the already well- known Paramour Bar — was intended to be the home of Phipps, who is a lawyer and the owner of both Paramour and Colette. But, COVID-19 changed those plans and Phipps shifted gears, to the benefit of the local community and food enthusiasts, in particular.
Serendipity was ever on his side, including the discovery of Colette’s executive chef, Darlen Narvaez, a refugee from Venezuela who has found a new home in the Alamo City.
“Five years ago, I left my country, Venezuela,” Narvaez says. “I arrived in Mexico and started as a dishwasher in a seafood restaurant. Two weeks later, they moved me to the line and, in that moment, I started to become more inspired in the kitchen. Venezuelan culture, Venezuelan food are memories for me. Behind those memories, I include flavors that help me remember those moments.”
According to Phipps, Narvaez is very hands-on in the kitchen and the vision of the menu is entirely hers with influences from her homeland, as well as other Latin, Japanese and French flavors.
“It’s a bold menu, multi-dimensional and complex,” says Phipps. “People wonder why I named the bar after French novelist, Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, and it’s because that was the spirit I wanted. I think women run the world anyway.”
Flambe Burnt Cheesecake photo by Kimberley Suta
Narvaez’s seasonal menu is a true delight and one of the most exotic and daring I have ever experienced in San Antonio. Bold, yes indeed, and without fear. The mélange of diverse, titillating flavors made my tongue sing.
Dining there, I felt as if I had awoken in a new world — again, like Alice. I cannot think of a better way to start a meal than with the aji mango ceviche, made with shrimp, citrus caviar, grape slices, charred avocado, togarashi seasoning and served with wonton chips. Other cold starters, like the salmon crudo and scallion ginger sauce, or the caviar board should not be overlooked either.
The rest of the menu is divided into playful sections. “Hope Costs Nothing” features creative choices like a miso napa cabbage steak and a roasted portobello carpaccio and burrata dish. “Close to Your Heart” featured an Asian ramen, while “Close to Your Soul” featured a traditional Brazilian seafood stew with snapper, shrimp, muscles, calamari and a slew of other tasty ingredients.
Although every bite was a blissful revelry, I absolutely fell in love with a sample from the fall/winter menu: Narvaez’s pork carnitas dumplings. Executed perfectly with a rich, sumptuous pork in a velvety dumpling, I could have easily eaten a dozen of these gorgeous gifts.
“I think it just feels almost natural, effortless, coming from Chef Narvaez. She’s making food she feels comfortable with, but at the end of the day, it has a twist. It’s definitely not ordinary,” shares general manager Julisa Medrano.
Phipps adds, “She knows different fruits and spices, but I think what she’s really doing is providing layers of flavor. That’s what makes her special. Venezuela showcases a lot of seafood, obviously, and chef [Narvaez] is also well-versed in different peppers from where she grew up. We like to incorporate them as long as we can source them.”
The cocktail program is on par with what you’ve come to expect from Paramour. The drinks are inspired by Phipps’ travels around the globe to favorite restaurants and bars. There’s a Buenos Aires Old Fashioned featured on the menu, for example, along with an impressive array of top shelf bourbon and tequila.
“I use the word balance because making custom cocktails takes a little time, but when you drink it everything’s supposed to blend together. Come to Colette every day for a month and you can enjoy something different,” notes Phipps.
Unusually, your table is yours for the evening. There is no turnover; you are not rushed. You are there for the night, and thankfully so, because Colette is empirically a one-of-a-kind experience you will want to savor. It’s a memory in the making — a rare chance to disconnect and see San Antonio from the eyes of an insightful world traveler and an exceptionally talented Venezuelan refugee.
In Alice and Wonderland, Alice says at one point, “Why sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast,” which pretty much sums up dinner at Colette.
